I’m so proud to present to you all today the August’s End Sweater! You can pair this with jeans, slacks or a skirt which makes it a super versatile piece for your wardrobe. I love having something that will go with just about anything!

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I designed this sweater to wear to a wedding that is coming up in a few weeks. I wanted something that was classy, warm enough to wear without a jacket in the evening, but light enough to not sweat to death at the reception. And I couldn’t be happier with the results!

This sweater is crocheted using a size 3 light weight yarn — a baby yarn actually — and a G/6 (4.25 mm) hook. The stitches are easy and I’ve included quite a few tutorial photos for construction and stitch placement. This is an intermediate level pattern.

The only stitches you’ll need to know are single crochet, double crochet and the cluster stitch. There are written instructions for the cluster stitch in the Special Stitches section of the pattern. I’ve also created a photo tutorial for working the cluster stitch that you can see at this link.

So, in addition to all that, I also wanted you all to be able to customize your sweater as much as you wanted. If you want a sweater without the plunging neckline, you can stitch up the center seam by a few more rows. If you want short sleeves instead of the long, you would simply work less rows than suggested.

And if you don’t like the cuff at the bottom of the sleeves, you can make your sleeves shorter to fit your arms. There are instructions on how to do this included in the pattern as well. I originally designed the August’s End Sweater to have short sleeves, but I ultimately decided that I preferred them to be longer since the reception would be in the evening and I didn’t want to take a jacket.

Also, I realize that the amount of foundation chains (starting chains) needed can seem a bit daunting to some, but I wanted to share a little trick with you on how I keep from having to recount large amounts of chains if I lose count.

I will get four or five stitch markers and keep them next to where I’m working. I chain 50 and then I will place a stitch marker, then chain 50 more, place another stitch marker and so on. You can do every 20, 25, 50 chains or even every 100 chains, it’s up to you. This helps me keep track of what I’ve chained and I never have to go back and recount them all. Smaller increments is always easier to deal with! Don’t you agree?

Then, as I work Row 1, I will remove each marker as I get to it. Or, if you are unsure of a pattern, you can leave them in until you have worked one row or several and just remove them later. It helps if you have to frog Row 1 and you don’t want to work your chain again.

If you need any help customizing your sweater, you can comment down below or email me (my email address is in the Notes section of the pattern).

I’ve designed a few other free sweater patterns that you can see at this link. Be sure to check those out!

Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here…

PIN THIS AUGUST’S END SWEATER PATTERN TO PINTEREST

Okay, so here we go!

August’s End Sweater

Materials Used:

• 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Baby Bee Sweet Delight in Naked – 4 oz/115 g – 377 yds/345 m
  Or any size 3 light weight yarn of your choice.
• G/6 (4.25 mm) hook — My favorite hooks! I use them daily!
• Measuring tape
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle

Gauge:

16 double crochet stitches and 8 rows in a 4” (10cm) square.

Special Stitches:

Cluster Stitch

*YO, insert hook into st, YO and draw back through, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook* Repeat from * to * 2 more times in the same stitch. YO and draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Abbreviations:

YO – yarn over
FC – foundation chain (starting chain)
ch(s) – chain(s)
st(s) – stitch(es)
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
sl st – slip stitch

Level:

Intermediate

Notes:

• This August’s End sweater is constructed of two long rectangular panels that are folded in middle for shoulder seam. Each panel forms one side of the front and one side of the back. The center front seam and center back seam are stitched and leaves an opening for the V-neck opening. The side seams are worked next from the bottom of the garment toward the armpit. Then the sleeves are crocheted directly onto the sweater body.
• Panels are worked lengthwise from the side edge to the center seam. Both panels are the same.
• The sleeve length can be altered by adding or removing rows according to your preference.
• The starting chains are pretty long. I would suggest using stitch markers to mark out 50 or 100 chains so you don’t have to recount if you lose count. You can remove them as you work Row 1.
• If you work in one loop of the three that make up one chain in the foundation chain (whichever loop you prefer to work in), your foundation chain will be stretchier.
• This pattern uses a multiple of five chains plus four if you are interested in using it for other projects or would like a smaller or larger sweater than what is given.
• The example August’s End sweater is a 2XL.
• You can block your panels if desired. The example is not blocked.
• Sizing is written as Small with Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, 3XL written in parenthesis for the foundation chain. I recommend using a highlighter or circling your size throughout the pattern to avoid confusion.
• The yarn I used in the example has a lot of stretch, and because of that stretch, I will be giving the number of cluster stitches to count for measuring your seams as well as an inch measurement. This will keep everything consistent for all sizes and yarn brands used. Further explanation is provided in the instructions below.
• Please remember that if you get stuck or don’t understand any of the instructions and need some clarification, that you can always contact me at highlandhickorydesigns@gmail.com for one on one help. I’m always happy to help!

*** American crochet terms used throughout.

Instructions:

(Make 2 panels)

FC: 194 (204, 214, 224, 234, 244)

Row 1: In the 6th ch from hook, cluster st. *Skip next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, ch 2, cluster st in next ch* Repeat from * to * across until 3 chs remain. Skip next 2 chs, dc in last ch. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). Skip the st the ch 5 comes out of, cluster st in the top of the cluster st from the previous row. *Skip next ch-2 space, dc in each of next 2 dc sts from previous row, ch 2, cluster st in the top of the cluster st from the previous row.* Repeat from * to * across. Skip 2 chs of the turning ch from previous row, dc in next ch of that turning chain. Turn.

Row 3 – Row 17 (19, 21, 23, 25, 27): Repeat Row 2. Finish off.

	SMALL	MEDIUM	LARGE
Width of Panels	8.5”	9.5”	10.5”
Length when folded in half (shoulder to bottom hem)	20.25”	21.5”	22.75”
Approximate Bust	34”	38”	42”

	XL	2XL	3XL
Width of Panels	11.5”	12.5”	13.5”
Length when folded in half (shoulder to bottom hem)	24”	25.25”	26.5”
Approximate Bust	46”	50”	54”

Finishing

Joining Center Seams (midpoint of chest and back)

Lay both panels horizontally on a flat surface with one above the other, side by side, and their long sides are touching. Try to make it so that the zigzag pattern continues on with a wrong side of a cluster next to a right side of a cluster as shown in the photo below. You may have to flip your panels around or over to make them match up.

Where the two panels are touching is going to be your center seam for the front and back of the sweater.

First, make sure that your stitches are lined up. Double crochets should be lined up with double crochets and clusters lined up with clusters (see photo below). From the bottom of the panels working toward the center, count the number of clusters pairs from both panels: 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16 clusters). If you prefer to work in inches for the front center seam instead of # of cluster pairs: Approximately 11.25” (12.25”, 13.25”, 14.25”, 15.25”, 16.25”). Place a stitch marker through both panels at the corresponding cluster stitches. This is your front center seam.

Note: If you don’t want a plunging neck line, you can make your front center seam come up higher by stitching more of it closed – approximately 2 – 3 more cluster pairs.

Second, working from the opposite end of you panels and still along the center seam, count the number of cluster pairs from both panels: 16 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21 clusters). Or if you prefer inches: Approximately 16.25” (17.25”, 18.25”, 19.25”, 20.25”, 21.25”). Place a stitch marker through both panels at the corresponding cluster stitches. This is your back center seam.

Using a tapestry needle and yarn, begin with front center seam. Working through the front loops only as shown in the photo below, stitch the two panels together starting at the end of the panels and working toward the stitch marker. Finish off. Repeat the process with the opposite side (the back center seam). Your center neck opening should be left unworked to where you could slip it over your head like a poncho.

I used the mattress stitch, but you can use whip stitching, slip stitching, or any other joining method of your choice.

The open space between the two seams is the neck opening.

Joining Side Seams (under arms)

Fold the panels in half where the fold forms the shoulder seam.

Note: Don’t fold along the center seam to form a long rectangle. Fold the other way where the center seam runs down through the middle and you get more of a square.

Where the two ends meet will be the bottom of the sweater. You will now be working along the side edges of the square to create the side seams and arm holes.

From the base of the August’s End sweater, along what will be the side seam, match up the cluster stitches. Counting up from the bottom of the sweater, count 13 (14, 14, 15, 16, 16) pairs of clusters. Or in inches: Approximately 13.5” (14.75”, 14.75”, 16”, 17”, 17.5”). Add a stitch marker through both thicknesses of crocheted fabric. Repeat this process on the opposite edge. Just be sure to end your side seam at a cluster pair, which is important for adding sleeves.

Using a tapestry needle and yarn, begin to mattress stitch from the base of the sweater toward the stitch marker. There will be an approximate 7” (7”, 8”, 8”, 8”, 9”) armhole depth left open on either side of the sweater just beneath the fold. Double your number for an actual armhole measurement and remember that there is a good bit of stretch.

Fold your sweater right side out. At this point, you can try it on and see how it fits. Make adjustments to your armholes at this point to ensure they are comfortable. Keep in mind that the size of your armholes determines the width of your sleeves all the way to your fingertips.

If you don’t want your sleeves any longer, simply skip the following sleeve instructions.

Sleeves

In order to keep the pattern going correctly, you will need to attach your yarn in the right direction for the sleeves. You will need to have the Wrong Side of the clusters around the armhole facing you as shown in the photo below next to my thumb. They look more like puff stitches on the Wrong Side rather than the flat smooth Right Sides.

You may or may not need to flip your garment inside out again. If, for instance, you have to flip it inside out only for one side and not the other, it’s not wrong. It really doesn’t matter. Just make sure the wrong side of the clusters are facing you when adding sleeves. Whether the sweater is wrong side out or right side out, makes no difference.

You will be working back and forth again, turning after each row – not in the round.

Round 1: Attach your yarn in the cluster on the right side of the side seam. Ch 3. Skip the side seam. *In next cluster from previous row, cluster st, skip ch-2 space, dc in next 2 dc from previous row, ch 2* Repeat from * to * around. Skip the ch 3 from the beginning of Round 1. Sl st in top of 1st cluster made of round. Turn.

Round 2: Ch 3, *skip ch-2 space, dc in next 2 dc from previous row, ch 2, cluster st in cluster st from previous row.* Repeat from * to * around. Skip the ch 3 from the beginning of this round. Sl st in top of 1st dc made of round. Turn.

Round 3: Ch 3 *In next cluster from previous row, cluster st, skip ch-2 space, dc in next 2 dc from previous row, ch 2* Repeat from * to * around. Skip the ch 3 from the beginning of this round. Sl st in top of 1st cluster made of round. Turn.

Continue to alternate Round 2 and Round 3 for a total of (30, 30, 32, 32, 34, 34) rounds.

Note: The sleeves are designed to be extra long so you can fold them up. If you don’t want the fold, remove approximately 4 – 5 rows or whatever you feel comfortable with. Two rows equal 1”.

At this point, flip your sweater right side out if it isn’t already. You can try the sweater on again to make sure you are happy with the sleeve length. Be careful not to pull out your stitches. You can also add a stitch marker into your last stitch to keep it from coming undone if that makes it easier for you. Once you’re satisfied with the sleeve length and ready to add the sleeve trim, remove the stitch marker and reinsert your hook. Ch 1, sc evenly around the sleeve opening. Sl st in the 1st sc made of round. Finish off. Weave in ends.

Repeat the sleeve process on the opposite side.

When trying on the sweater, adjust your sleeve cuffs, use stitch markers or baby pins to keep the cuff in position. Or you can simply count the number of rows of your cuff. With a tapestry needle and yarn, tack stitch the sleeve cuffs into position to keep them from falling down.

Trim

Neck Hole

Attach yarn to any stitch along the neck hole (preferably in the back), ch 1, sc evenly around the entire neck opening. Sl st in the 1st sc made of round. Finish off. Weave in end.

Bottom hem

Attach yarn to any stitch along the bottom hem (preferably in the back), ch 1, sc evenly around the entire bottom opening. Sl st in the 1st sc made of round. Finish off. Weave in end.

PIN THIS AUGUST’S END SWEATER PATTERN TO PINTEREST 

I hope you’ve enjoyed the August’s End Sweater pattern! If you make one, I’d love to see it. You can tag me @highlandhickorydesigns on either Facebook or Instagram.

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